Through my lens: revisiting Brussels
The European capital that redeemed itself - multiple times.
For a long time, I considered Brussels to be not much more than a convenient transportation hub close to where I live. Besides two airports in the vicinity, Brussels also serves as an important transit point for both London and Paris.
Whether you’re planning to board the popular Eurostar train that spits you out at the St Pancras station, smack in the middle of London, or embark on a high-speed journey to Gare du Nord, Bruxelles Midi is the place to be.
Unfortunately, this part of the city is not exactly the prettiest of them all. In the past, I booked hotels in neighbourhoods where I felt uncomfortable to walk back to alone - a rookie mistake, of course, but then I was young and stupid, as well as broke, once, too. Learning the hard way, I know now it’s definitely worth paying a bit more to stay close to the city centre - which, by all accounts, will take your breath away.
First-time visits are usually the most memorable ones, but in my case, it took more than one return trip to warm up to the beauty of the city that combines art nouveau architecture with bold, modern glass buildings the way only a European capital can.
The structure pictured above is - believe it or not - a pedestrian bridge, connecting the two buildings in a surprisingly functional way. The 18th-century facades reflected on its mirrored surface impressed me more than one of the Brussels’ most famous sights, the Atomium - while that one definitely looks cool on the outside, there is virtually nothing worth seeing once you enter, making it the ultimate tourist trap.
That said, Brussels is more than worth visiting, you just need to be a bit discerning. The one place that will make your jaw drop whether you want it or not, is the Grand Place. One of the most historically rich public squares in Europe, it boasts a number of building that all look like they were built by elves, and I mean the rich 10%.
Once a medieval marketplace, the Grand Place attracted rich merchants from all over Europe, which led to the establishment of the famous Guildhalls - aka the headquarters of the merchant guilds of the time. The Guildhalls, representing the various trades with their own unique, decorative features, belong to some of the most beautiful examples of Flemish Baroque architecture.
Together with the Gothic Town Hall and the Maison du Roi, which houses the Museum of the City of Brussels nowadays, the Guildhalls are part of the UNESCO World Heritage. By night, the whole square is beautifully illuminated, making it look like something out of a fairytale.
But it was only after having visited its two major museums - the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, and the Magritte Museum - that I truly fell in love with the city. Dedicated to the works of the old masters, such as Bruegel and Rubens, and to the surrealist artist René Magritte respectively, the two museums could be virtually explored for hours. Which is exactly what I did. Travelling solo, I fully embraced the luxury of going wherever I wanted, wandering aimlessly and eating out late. In walking the streets alone, I found poetry in unexpected places.
Last time we’ve visited Brussels with my daughter, we made sure to skip the ‘must-sees’ (trust me on this one - you do not need to see the famous peeing boy statue, let alone his female counterpart). Instead, we went to see the beautifully renovated Bourse building, sneaked a peek into the shopping arcade Passage du Nord, took polaroid pictures in the photomaton and had the best pizza in the world in an Italian restaurant just off the Grand Place. That is what I call a city trip done well.
What surprised me the most this time, though, were the people. I can’t tell whether it was my vision that has changed over the years, or whether we just happened upon people consciously enjoying a moment of peace amidst the usual tourist-induced frenzy. Either way, I was happy to capture a couple of quiet moments, from watching the street artist draw sketches of people passing by, to the beautiful lady reading in one of the nooks at the Bourse.
‘People make the city’ might be a well-worn cliché, but in this case, I think it’s true. Their unique mix of Flemish and French combines the best of both worlds: the no-nonsense approach of the Dutch, and the joie de vivre of the French.
And then there’s the food, of course.
If you ever get the chance to visit Brussels, forget the must-sees and go straight for the famed Belgian fries. And waffles. Don’t forget the waffles.
Thank you for reading!
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Hey Just Suzy, I like your text as much as the photographs. Nice. I have been to Brussels many, many times. I am still trying to find the perfect time. I saw Elliott Erwitt's show last time I was there just off Grand Place, and the time before that a nice Peter Lindbergh show. Magritte Museum is lovely, and the food is excellent. The frites are without a doubt the best anywhere. Love the lady reading!! Great stuff..... Thank you!
Wonderful writing and beautiful images Suzy, capturing what I imagine the spirit of Brussels to be like - I felt like I was on a tour of the real city with you! I love the image of the woman reading - it really conveys the sense of peace and calm in that quiet moment so well!